Qipao Love: Part 18 ~ Cultural appropriation and the Qipao (Cheongsam)...a matter of opinion?

My beehive and a groovy Cheongsam.... [Caroline Opacic Photography]
Having received a reader's email voicing cocerns about cultural appropriation and the Qipao (Cheongsam) recently, it has made me consider some of the questions this issue brings to light. There has been an ongoing spin in the media on famous people wearing certain traditional garments of other cultures being offensive or even racially prejudice, with different arguments from different sources. Perhaps it is time to voice my two pennies worth of thoughts on the matter, and of course I cannot claim to represent all persons of Asian heritage at all, so thoughts are essentially mine alone and they are not meant to be offensive or political in any manner. As a Cheongsam enthusiast and advocate, I feel it is important to spread the beauty of this dress and prevent scaring those who love the Cheongsam into not being able to wear it just because they are ethnically different. Living in London I have come to appreciate diversity as well as freedom, there are not many cities around the world with such great appreciation for difference, culture and freedom. Where I can walk down the street of good ol' London town in a piled high beehive and Qipao without so much of a batted eyelid by passers by, I am probably unlikely to get away with it in other parts of the world....even in an Asian country. Nothing major of course; I will probably get passers by stopping to stare and guessing I am either crazy, dressing up for a fancy dress party, going to a formal event or wedding. Such is the circumstances that have restricted the use of the Qipao today (unless of course it could be Chinese New Year), and almost to the extent of a social phobia in being too different to fit to the norm of daily modern fashionable Western style dress in an Asian country. My question is...should this circumstance be normal even for those who have an ethnically Chinese background living in Asia? Why should the Cheongsam no longer be the norm? Does it have to be in Vogue in order to be fashionable?

Anna May Wong (Source: Pinterest)

Sceen from 'Flowers of War' (Source)

Chinese-born Japanese actress Yoshiko Otaka (Yamaguchi) [Pinterest]
Is it just body image or a deeper fear, and indeed why should women fear what they wear? I have been addressing this issue post by post through developing the Qipao Love series that I hope can become a useful reference point or even inspirational motivation for others, and have been calling forth women who love the Qipao or Cheongsam to embrace that love by celebrating it with others through the monthly Qipao LoveR feature. A garment that was still being worn as daily wear about more than 60 years ago being replaced by modern trend directed clothing in an effort to become more Westernised or fashionable is a fact. The art of making the Qipao through traditional means is dying and specialised tailors are disappearing, so one day it could become something only seen in museums. Therefore I see it important to encourage more ladies to get to know the Qipao, and for those who love collecting the Qipao like myself to be able to wear  it without the prejudice or fear of being seen as some sort of fun-only costume...if I should wear it let it be with love, so if others wear it then I hope it is with love and appreciation too. My close Japanese friend also fears the art of the Kimono might one day die out, and with her teachings I learned to dress in a Yukata (summer Kimono) the traditional way from how to tie the obi traditionally to how to behave when wearing the Yukata. Dressing can be an art. When one loves something one will carry it with respect and appreciate its beauty, which I hope is the message I have been able to spread.

Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor in Cheongsam (Divine Stitches

Clark Gable and actress Li Li-Hwa (Source: Pinterest)

Vintage Butterick sewing pattern....to make your own Cheongsam (Divine Stitches)

Love my Yukata even though I'm not Japanese..... [Yukata How-To]
Photo: Caroline Opacic Photography

Wearing my Yukata with a proper lightweight Obi.... [1920s Modan Garu]
Perhaps I have a different approach to others in seeing information as a means of helping others to understand some context of a culture, and actually encouraging others to appreciate traditional dress. Have a look at the photos (above) of Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor dressed in traditionally Chinese garments, but not looking any bit offensive...well to me anyway, in fact I think they look beautiful. I feel the difference between the offensive and non-offensive is crucially 'how one wears the traditional dress', so here's a few ideas to consider:
  • Research that dress! If you would like to wear a Qipao (Cheongsam) respectfully, then do a little research into what looks nice with it and know the name of what it is that you will be wearing. It is probably best not to mix a widely perceived Chinese dress with items from other Asian cultures, to avoid making broad statements about all Asian cultures, or indeed dig out the political through a historical war context that could simmer a stereotypical grudge of some sort. If in doubt, keep it simple.
  • Mere fun-filled costume or true loving appreciation? Your intention matters, and how you choose to wear a traditional garment will allow others to decipher information about you as well as how you feel about the garment. If you love something, then you will simply want to do it justice and appreciated it in the best way that you can.
If wearing a traditional Qipao (Cheongsam) is still daunting because of cultural sensitivities, then perhaps you can start with a modern Cheongsam instead. There are several newly emerging independent Cheongsam designers in Asia, who are selling rather modernly modified designs incorporating Western dress features with an element of creativity as well as play of fabric, to make the Cheongsam more accessible to younger working females of today. [For a reference of the different Modern Cheongsam designs I have tried, take a look at the Qipao Love series.] Have a fabulous start to the week darlings!



Until the next time,
May xx

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In my very first modern everyday Cheongsam....on a Singapore trip. [Qipao Love]